Perhaps you never hung on every naughty, sensuous word of Gael Greene, who was New York magazine’s head restaurant critic for decades. But lots of us did, and when the news boiled over earlier this week that La Gael had gotten the sack, we were stunned. As one of her friends said, “It’s as if they removed the lions from the library steps.” Read all about it–whether you agree with the justification or not, you can’t deny Gael was a formidable presence in the food scene in New York. More importantly, she was never, ever dull.  She’ll still be writing “hot news, gossip, nibbles and bits” on her blog, Insatiable-critic.com.

Bud Royer, aka the Pie Man, just called to congratulate me on our Texas cafes story (the December cover). And that reminded me that Royers Round Top Cafe makes my favorite mail-order pies in Texas. And, yes, you can still order a pie for Thanksgiving–they do one-day shipping within Texas. But order it NOW!  Bud’s even lowered the prices! Pecan, butterscotch, buttermilk, chocolate-chip, punkin–they’re all good, at $22.50 to $24.50 plus shipping. And of course, you can always order ahead for Christmas.

If you haven’t been to Cover 3, go. We had a fantastic meal at this stylish new restaurant (it opened last week) on Anderson Lane in Austin. We admit we were a little skeptical of the concept–a high-end sports bar?–but we liked what we saw. And so did the crowd in the expansive dining room. Our starter of beef tenderloin sliders proved amazing. Add a really cold Fat Tire, and you are in business. Scallops with almonds and asparagus? Fabulous. The flat screens are there if you want to watch them, or unobtrusive if you don’t. And, yes, we approved of the extensive wine list. We’ve heard that some people feel this place is too high-brow and too expensive. We disagree. Men glanced at the scores while their dates sipped on wine–a win-win situation if ever there was one. Owners Matt Dodson and Doug Young, who both worked at Z’Tejas for about fourteen years, have the folks behind Eddie V’s backing them. Score indeed. 

The New York-based Zagat guides have just come out with their latest rankings of hotels, resorts, and spas. What’s number one in the country? Texas’ own Ritz-Carlton Hotel and Fearing’s restaurant, in Dallas. Here’s what the breathless news release says: ‘Rated extraordinary to perfection in each category, the hotel is touted as “fabulous luxury” and “perfect service” with travelers describing Fearing’s as “last-meal worthy” “haute Texan” cuisine and the spa as “divine.” ‘ For what it’s worth, I personally think the Ritz owes all of this to King Dean the First, who is simply the most famous chef in Texas, period, end of story. Dean has officially entered the needs-no-last-name category, along with Wolfgang and Mario. The hotel promotes itself as an adjunct to  Dean rather than the other way around. Fascinating. As for the food–well, I adore half  (the delicate, beautifully prepared, global, emphatically non-Texan half) and I kind of wish the other half  (the brawny, over-the-top, kick-ass Texan part) would quietly fade away  (except for that “chicken-fried” double lamb chop!) . But I lost that battle a long time ago. The people have spoken. Dean, congrats. My hat is off to you, man.

Social justice, moral rectitude, and mass compassion aren’t usually washed down with a margarita, but Carlos Santana believes he can serve up all of this and some delicious duck tacos at Maria Maria, a restaurant chain (they also have Joe Di Maggio’s in the Domain) with the first Texas outlet in Austin. Merging music and food is a no-brainer in Austin, but the celebrity of Carlos Santana gives Maria Maria a palpable energy.

At a recent media event to celebrate the opening of the restaurant, The Carlos made an appearance that had most of the local media a twitter–KVUE’s Olga Campos donned a pair of Santana stilettos for the occasion. When asked why Austin, the usual response about music and Austin was dispensed, but later Santana went into a long response about his moral responsibility to all of the people in this country who need opportunity. (BTW, Santana believes in the change promised by President-elect Obama.) As Santana sees it, the shoes, the restaurants, the celebrity are all tools to advance Latinos and Latinas and others who need economic opportunity and a dream.

Supernatural Santana talked a lot of heart, compassion, and giving back–he meets with the kitchen staff on every trip. A self proclaimed hippie, Santana touts that he hasn’t been knighted by the Queen of England like Mick Jagger and Elton John, but rather by Bob Dylan. For him this means that he’s found the wawh, as the African women who taught him to drum call the fourth beat in the 4/4 that Santana has mastered. For him it means it’s got rhythm, heart, and soul. According to Santana, Austin has the wawh.

An interior styled Mexican menu at Maria Maria is spearheaded by Roberto Santibanez who honed his chops at Fonda San Miguel and overall it’s tasty. Complex chile sauces and crab enchiladas may be ambitious for a chain that plans on national expansion, but then again they have the wawh of Carlos Santana.

Maria Maria -
415 Colorado Street
Austin, TX 78701
(925) 944-2464
www.mariamariarestaurants.com

Come January, Dallas is scheduled to get a new revolving restaurant atop Reunion Tower, courtesy of chef Wolfgang Puck. (The Tower is the dandelion-topped building from the opening credits of the TV show “Dallas,” in case you’re not from the city.)  The name of the restaurant hasn’t been announced–in other words, it might be a Chinois or a Spago, and then again, it might be something totally new, just for Big D.

This all reminds me of when Wolfie used to come to Dallas and do cooking classes for local food writers and editors at the Mansion on Turtle Creek (and  an affiliated hotel in Houston) back in the eighties. His PR agents in Houston, who had a wicked sense of humor, had aprons printed up with the name “Puck U” on them.

Ever, wonder what culinary masterminds have up their sleeves when planning their menus? The secrets to grocery lists, food prep, plating beautiful presentations, and, of course, how to make delicious meals—the kind your dinner guests will talk about long after the evening is over—are all wrapped up in the new Culinary Institute of America (CIA) Cookbook.

Those unfamiliar with the CIA should know that for the past 60 years, this famed cooking school has graduated many of today’s leaders in the food industry. Celebrity chefs Anthony Bourdain, Rocco DiSpirito, Anne Burrell, and Grant Achatz are all graduates of the CIA. With four locations in Napa Valley, San Antonio, and two in New York, the school offers associate’s and bachelor’s degrees as well as continued education for chefs. This month, the CIA reveals a number of its best-kept secrets in a dense compilation of more than 375 recipes and handy tips for the home cook.

Everything from beverages and snacks to salads, soups, and main dishes are found in this book, as well as myriad mouthwatering photos of recipes to entice even the most inexperienced of cooking novices.

The added bonus is the preface chapter: Prior to Cooking, which details everything from how to organize a shopping list and what to always have on hand in the pantry, to how to choose different varieties of produce and store fresh vegetables.

Each chapter features a number of different quick tips or little known cooking facts such as how to brew the perfect cup of coffee and how to build the perfect fire in a charcoal grill.

Still, there are a few minor flaws. As well organized as the recipes are in their lists of ingredients, prep time, and serving portions, the Table of Contents and chapter recipe contents are displayed in a justified paragraph listing that is a bit tiring on the eyes. Readers will have to REALLY look to find recipes. Though the publishers may have been trying to save page space, the result is an unappealing jumble of words on the page.

Overall, the recipes are very approachable and straightforward, although some are more complex than others. In a simple phrase, this book brings all the bells and whistles of haute cuisine to and Alton Brown practicality that makes cooking simple and complex meals less intimidating for the average home chef.

Happy Cooking! 

It’s a twofer–you ordinary foodies can take professional-quality cooking lessons AND you can see the teaching kitchens at the Culinary Institute of America’s campus in San Antonio. Two very cool classes are being offered to the general public for the first time. I’ve got to warn you, they’re expensive, but the good part is that both classes are two to three days long and both are hands-on and all the food is included (as well it should be). The first is Mexican Small Bites, on appetizers and hors’ doeuvres (December 1 and 2, for $795). The second is on the cooking of Puebla and Oaxaca, two famous Mexican culinary cities (December 3, 4, and 5, for $1195). But as much fun as the classes are, it’s an equal treat to be inside the facility and use the professional kitchens.

Two Texas restaurants are in the limelight. Voice (pictured, at the Hotel Icon in Houston, under chef Michael Kramer) and Dallas’s Mansion on Turtle Creek (under relatively new chef John Tesar) have both made Esquire magazine’s list of the best new restaurants in the country. Nationally known critic John Mariani obviously liked what he ate (check out his web site and sign up for his newsletter). Watch for Esquire’s November issue on newsstands soon .

As far as I’m concerned, any day is the right day to eat out, but tomorrow–Wednesday, October 1–is especially right. Why? Because some of your dining dollars may help a food bank in your city. The gig is the Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up, a charitable event sponsored by the Texas Department of Agriculture. Being part of it couldn’t be easier. Just pick a participating restaurant from this list and go eat at it on October 1. That’s all. Really. Do it.  Now.